2012 Cedric Bouchard La Boloree

The 2012 Blanc de Blancs La Bolorée is another dazzling wine in this tasting that marries the ripeness of a warm year with the freshness and vibrancy that are such signatures of this site. Apricot, orange peel, mint and exotic floral notes all race out of the glass. Readers who want a bit more aromatic and flavor complexity may want to continue to cellar the 2012, even though it so alluring right now.

The highlight in this range, the 2012 Blanc de Blancs La Bolorée is a wine that will make readers weak at the knees. Deceptively medium in body, the Bolorée opens up in the glass to reveal exceptional depth, power and intensity. Historically, the Bolorée has needed a few years in bottle after release to show at its best. I expect that to be the case here as well. There is real thrust to the white orchard fruit, citrus, slate and floral notes, but readers need to be patient. The heady, explosive finish hints at a very bright future. La Bolorée, Bouchard's old-vine Pinot Blanc, is one of the hardest wines anywhere in the world to track down. Those fortunate enough to find it are in for a real treat. Disgorged: April 2016. No dosage.