NV Henri Giraud Esprit Brut Nature

Sourced from the Montagne de Reims and the Grande Vallée—with a notable proportion originating from Aÿ—the latest iteration of NV Esprit Nature is composed of two-thirds base wine from the 2021 vintage, complemented by the remainder from a perpetual reserve established in 1990. Vinified in seasoned oak barrels (three to six years old, previously used for MV and Argonne) and disgorged in February 2024 with a dosage of five grams per liter, it opens with aromas of yellow apple, lemon zest and white peach, mingling with toasted bread undertones and a hint of wormwood. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied, vinous and taut, boasting tangy acidity, a pillowy mousse and a long, persistent finish.

Right from the beginning, this has an enchanting nose of red apple, raspberry and candied orange peel. But as it aerates in the glass, notes of chocolate and sushi ginger emerge. Tons of depth and structure for a Brut NV, the creaminess reining in the power. The long, saline finish pulls you back for more. A cuvee of 3/4 pinot noir and 1/4 chardonnay. Based on the 2016 vintage with just over a third of perpetual reserve (solera system). From organically grown grapes. Drink now.

Pretty smart nose. And just the right balance on the sprightly palate. Not ridiculously overpriced. Satisfying with some toastiness. (JR)