2013 Moncerbal

Each year it's a fight between Moncerbal and Las Lamas, and it's usually the former that is better. The 2013 Moncerbal, the stonier and more extreme vineyard, was quite open, even a little forward with ripe cherries, exuberant, a little lactic with some savory aromas (Marmite?). The palate is medium to full-bodied, with fine minerality, with a much better palate than nose. In fact, the nose was quite chameleon-like - it kept changing for a good couple of hours I had it in the glass, sometimes showing more forward, and then closing down and feeling more austere and backward. I have no doubt this will evolve nicely in bottle. 2,160 bottles produced.

Saturated ruby. Expansive aromas of fresh red and dark berries, Asian spices, incense and woodsmoke, with a mineral nuance emerging with aeration. Juicy, seamless and focused on the palate, offering gently sweet raspberry, boysenberry and rose pastille flavors that deepen and spread out on the back half. Shows excellent concentration but comes off as graceful and precise, finishing with superb thrust and repeating floral character; silky tannins add grip.

Blackcurrant and menthol nose, liquorice too. Impressively different to the Las Lamas – much more forthright flavour, and something verging on the confected. (RH)