2016 La Parde de Haut Bailly

The 2016 La Parde de Haut-Bailly, matured in 30% new oak, has a strict, pencil-lead-infused bouquet that demands a little coaxing from the glass. I appreciate the delineation of this second wine, which is quite focused, with a light marine aroma. The medium-bodied palate exerts gentle grip. Finely structured with just a touch of cracked black pepper, this builds in the mouth to quite a linear, grippy finish that suggests that it will last longer than many might afford it. Excellent.

A firm and velvety red with berry and tobacco character and hints of walnuts. Medium body, round and juicy tannins and a medium finish. A blend of 47 per cent merlot, 47 per cent cabernet sauvignon and six per cent cabernet franc. Second wine of Château Haut-Bailly. Try after 2021.

The 2016 La Parde Haut-Bailly is gorgeous, supple and wonderfully inviting. Even so, there is quite a bit of supporting structure that gives the wine its energy and overall shape. Smoke, tobacco, cedar, licorice and leather add aromatic nuance, but it is the wine's textural depth that stands out most. La Parde is a second wine that overdelivers, big time.