2014 Chardonnay Bentrock
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Punteggio 88+/100 · Da bere 2016-2019, Antonio Galloni, Vinous, Jul 2016
The 2014 Chardonnay Bentrock is the most heavily reduced of these whites. Reduction can be a positive attribute in white wine, especially in Burgundy, where it is often prized. Here, it is at the limit of what most consumers are likely to find acceptable. Still, I very much like the wine's energy and citrus/mineral-driven cut. With a few hours of air, the 2014 finds lovely focus. But heavy reduction returned to the same bottle with 24 hours of air. It's hard to know what to make of the 2014 at this stage. In my experience, this amount of reduction never disappears, and while some amount of reduction can be a positive attribute, here, in my view, it is too much.
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88
88+/100
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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