2005 Insignia

(Hepworth described 2005 as "a sleeper vintage, Bordeaux-like early on and austere"; the first vintage made with Suscol Vineyard fruit, from vines planted in 2002): Bright ruby-red. Musky aromas of black raspberry, plum, mocha, smoked meat, porcini and underbrush. Plush, thick and quite dry, showing excellent depth and good lift to its flavors of black raspberry, pine needles, graphite and cigar box. With aeration, this wine showed a building truffley perfume and substantial tannins. Any early sweetness it might have showed has been nicely integrated. Incidentally, 2005 brought the highest yield ever, with some vineyards producing up to five tons of fruit per acre.

The 2005 Proprietary Red Insignia (14.5% alcohol and typically aged 24 months in new French oak) is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot and 1% Merlot. Juicy, fresh and vibrant, with a dense, ruby/purple color, and a classic nose of licorice and crème de cassis as well as hints of new saddle leather and earth, the wine is a brilliant blend that after ten years shows no evidence of the 24 months it spent in new French oak. Full-bodied, opulent, but still youthful, this wine looks set for another 25-30 years of aging. The wine’s best elements are its finesse and elegance allied to great richness and intensity. This wine is accessible now, as most Insignias tend to be, but much of its greatness will be revealed over the next two decades.

Rather ridiculous special bottle. Dark crimson. Actually pretty convincing and beautifully knit on the nose. Mellow and rich with balsamic and black olive notes. Very luscious and sumptuous. (JR)