2015 Morey St Denis Aux Charmes

The 2015 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Aux Charmes, the last vineyard before you cross the border into Mazoyères-Chambertin, includes around 40% whole bunch fruit this year. It has a pastille-like purity on the nose: outgoing scents of crushed strawberry and raspberry preserve, clementine and a touch of iris. There is lovely definition and purity in situ. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, crisp red cherry and black pepper notes on the tip of the tongue, plenty of energy, although it just tapers in towards the finish, perhaps saving something for later. One of Virgile Lignier's more elegant contributions to the vintage.

Bright, full red. Very reticent nose shows as much red as black fruit character but lacks verve today. Sweet on entry, then rather dry in the middle, in need of more definition and lift. I find this a bit dusty and wonder where it can go. Lignier told me he picked this fruit on the second day of his harvest--i.e., before the rain. This may be going through an awkward stage?

The 2015 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Aux Charmes, the last vineyard before you cross the border into Mazoyères-Chambertin, includes around 40% whole bunch fruit this year. It has a pastille-like purity on the nose: outgoing scents of crushed strawberry and raspberry preserve, clementine and a touch of iris. There is lovely definition and purity in situ. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, crisp red cherry and black pepper notes on the tip of the tongue, plenty of energy, although it just tapers in towards the finish, perhaps saving something for later. One of Virgile Lignier's more elegant contributions to the vintage. Dec 2016, www.robertparker.com, Drink: 2019-2036