2013 Yattarna

Absolutely beautiful – so intense, with creamy, spicy oak that weaves in seamlessly. Excellent intensity and depth, with all the complexity that you could hope for from the very best Chardonnays around the world. Still in great shape (thank you screwcap!) – and there's a lovely lingering smoky finish. (RH)

A blend of grapes from the Derwent and Coal Valleys in Tasmania, and the Adelaide Hills. A warm growing season. Eight months in French oak of which 62% was new, and 38% one year old. Tasted blind. Pale, bright greenish straw. Rather obvious leesiness on the nose. Excellent tension on the palate but just a little muted. Still a bit chewy on the end. Margaret River? (JR)

90% from two vineyards in Tasmania (Derwent and Coal Valley) and 10% Adelaide Hills. This wine has been 12.5% for some time (launched in 1998 with the 1995 vintage). Designed to be the white wine that stands alongside Grange. He sees a split before and after 2000 with Yattarna. TA 7 g/l, pH 3.17. Eight months in French oak barriques, 62% new and 38% one year old. Very deep and sweet on the nose in a grand cru sort of way (not a sweet California style). Really fills the middle palate. Very fine and refined. Subtle and intellectual. Appetising. Very savoury. Not an ounce of spare flesh – no sweetness. Super clean. (JR)