2010 Gevrey Chambertin Lavaux St Jacques

(just a single barrel from century-old vines, the oldest in this appellation, according to Laurent): Good medium red. Nose dominated by smoky torrefaction. Creamy-sweet and thick, with terrific concentration. Plenty of power here but can't match the Estournelles for definition and aromatic complexity. Consistent from start to unflagging finish, though. (My sample of the highly promising Clos Saint-Jacques was too reduced to assess with confidence.)