2014 Vosne Romanee Les Suchots

(70% vendange entier ; two-thirds new oak): Bright medium red. Knockout nose showcases this estate's adroit use of whole clusters, with perfumed scents of red cherry, raspberry, orange zest, cocoa powder, rose petal and white pepper. Wonderfully silky and fine-grained but youthfully tight, showing striking definition and inner-mouth tension to the flavors of red berries, blood orange, spices and flowers. The firmly tannic finish boasts superb rising length and a late note of bitter chocolate and leaves the salivary glands quivering. This wonderfully aromatic wine should enjoy a slow evolution in bottle.

Quite rich with a hint of oak on the nose. Rather wears its heart on its sleeve. It may open out to something exciting but at the moment is a bit strict and off putting. (JR)

(70% vendange entier; two-thirds new oak): Bright medium red. A wonderfully expressive essence of Burgundy on the nose, offering scents of raspberry, Oriental spices, smoke and underbrush. Plush, sweet, round and intense, with lovely perfume building through the palate. Finishes utterly seamless, with serious but fully ripe tannins, firm minerality and terrific length and lift. All in finesse. Winemaker Geraldine Godot, who told me that this parcel is picked "for ripeness of tannins," placed it earlier than usual in the line-up of wines here, as she believes that most of the estate's Nuits-Saint-Georges cuvées are tighter in 2014.