2014 Vosne Romanee

(tasted from tank; Mallard has cut the percentage of new oak in this wine to 20% and is now assembling the blend earlier; 100% destemmed):Good medium red. Aromas of red cherry, licorice and minerals. Juicy, spicy red berry and mineral flavors are supple but adamantly dry, showing a complicating touch of salinity. Could use a bit more cut but this tangy village wine should be expressive early.

The 2014 Vosne-Romanée Village, which had been racked three weeks prior to my visit and matured in three new barrels out of fourteen, is a blend of "Les Vigneux" and the bottom half of Les Brûlées augmented by the domaine's younger vines. It has a surprisingly precocious nose with black cherry and a touch of cassis fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with juicy ripe tannin, moderate acidity, quite fleshy for a 2014 with a red cherry and soy-tinged finish.

14 casks. 20% new. All destemmed. Vigneaux and the bottom bit of Brûlées because they don’t reckon it’s up to premier cru standard – a little bit rustic, and all the young vines – up to eight years. Sumptuous nose. Really quite rich and sweet. Then it falls away a little on the palate but it will delight drinkers in the relatively short term. Fine tannins on the very end. Oodles of charm. (JR)