2011 Quinta Sardonia Red

The 2011 QS is Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon with small percentages of other French grapes fermented together and aged in oak barrels for 20 months. The aim is to show the chalky character of the quinta (estate). 2011 is extremely ripe and the wine reached 15.4% alcohol, but it doesn’t show. It starts quite lactic, with notes of fruits-of-the-forest yogurt, spicy and lush, with no noticeable oak. The wine needs plenty of time and air, so decanting it in advance is a good idea. It is ripe but it’s focused and bright, perhaps the effect of some stems in the wine. The palate is full-bodied, but it has very good balance and acidity, a special liveliness provided by the mineral, chalky, drying sensation of the texture. A soil-driven red of character. Drink 2015-2021. Terras Gauda from Rias Baixas, who also own Pittacum in Bierzo, acquired a majority stake (75%) in Quinta Sardonia at the end of 2010. Quinta Sardonia in Sardon de Duero is just outside the limits of the Ribera del Duero appellation. The project is based on theirown grapes. Peter Sisseck of Pingus fame had been linked to the name since the start in the year 2000, but he left the project with the change of ownership. However, Frenchman Jerome Bougnaud continues being a consultant, as he’s been there in charge of the vineyards and the wines since the early days. Bougnaud had worked with Bertrand Sourdais at Nenin in Pomerol. Sourdais arrived in Ribera del Duero through Ricardo Perez Palacios and Bougnaud followed and got in contact with Sisseck through Alvaro Palacios. He arrived in Spain in 2000, and in 2001 he started working for Hacienda Monasterio and Pingus, joining the Quinta Sardonia project in 2002. In 2005, he also started working at El Regajal in Aranjuez (Madrid), owned by Daniel Garcia Pita, who was one of the owners of Quinta Sardonia. Quinta Sardonia’s vineyards are outside Ribera del Duero by two kilometers, and it’s the same slope as Hacienda Monasterio, just 20 kilometers west. All the vineyards are on the slopes, 22 hectares of them, with alluvial soils from the river, ranging from 760 to 830 meters altitude. They have 18 different soils – and they use 18 different vats – but all of them are of chalk origin, and seven different grape varieties. I noticed a big change in the wines from 2011 and Bougnaud tells me there are even bigger changes in 2012 and 2013. I look forward to tasting them, as I was greatly impressed by what I saw from 2011. Imported by Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

(51% tempranillo, 29% cabernet sauvignon, 6% merlot, 5% syrah, 5% petit verdot, 2% cabernet franc and 2% merlot; aged for a year and a half in French oak): Saturated ruby. Powerful, smoke-accented cherry and licorice aromas are sharpened and lifted by a zesty mineral quality and a touch of fresh rose. Deeply concentrated dark fruit and fruitcake flavors are slow to unwind, picking up a hint of bitter chocolate with aeration. Finishes chewy and long, with dusty tannins providing grip. Sep 2014, www.vinous.com

The 2011 QS is Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon with small percentages of other French grapes fermented together and aged in oak barrels for 20 months. The aim is to show the chalky character of the quinta (estate). 2011 is extremely ripe and the wine reached 15.4% alcohol, but it doesn’t show. It starts quite lactic, with notes of fruits-of-the-forest yogurt, spicy and lush, with no noticeable oak. The wine needs plenty of time and air, so decanting it in advance is a good idea. It is ripe but it’s focused and bright, perhaps the effect of some stems in the wine. The palate is full-bodied, but it has very good balance and acidity, a special liveliness provided by the mineral, chalky, drying sensation of the texture. A soil-driven red of character. Drink 2015-2021. Aug 2014, www.robertparker.com