2013 Pouilly Fuisse Ampelopsis

(bottled at the end of July; a barrel selection from the domain's "great terroirs ", given a longer élevage ; Saumaize described it as "like a quintessence: made to amuse myself," adding that he makes very little of it because he doesn't want to throw off the other cuvées ): Bright lemon-yellow. Superripe peach, fresh apricot, honey and a hint of oak on the nose; much more exotic than any of the 2014s, as the superripe skins, according to Saumaize, brought "a form of sûrmaturité ." Fat, silky and sweet, but with sûrprising sneaky acidity. Plush and fine-grained but firmly structured too, owing to the very concentrated millerandé grapes. Finishes with good phenolic grip, strong white-soil rocky minerality and superb length. Saumaize noted that he used very little new oak in 2013. The depth of this wine demands more time in bottle--not to mention service with food.