2008 Thorevilos

As outstanding as all the Abreu wines are, if I had to choose one that stands apart from the others it would be Thorevilos. The 2008 Thorevilos is the most complete and deeply satisfying of Abreu’s 2008s because the balance of fruit and structure is so impeccable. The 2008 literally explodes onto the palate with masses of dark fruit, tar, licorice and smoke. There is a fleshiness and depth of the fruit here that separates the Thorevilos from the other 2008s. Layers of fruit build towards the massive, masculine finish. In 2008 Thorevilos is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc and 15% Petit Verdot. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2038. (Not yet released) I stopped by Abreu twice this fall. The first time I tasted the 2008s, 2009s and 2010s. The second time I watched the work on the sorting table and tasted a few 2011s from tank. Both tastings left a deep impression. Brad Grimes is one of the most brilliant winemakers in Napa Valley. He seems guided by a sense of intuition married to experience rather than the more technical approach that is quite common throughout the Valley. Co-fermentations are quite common. Grimes isn’t going to lose any sleep if a few jack stems make it into the fermentation tanks. The winery itself is as immaculate as it could possibly be. Simply put, these are some of the most beautiful wines being made in Napa Valley today. The 2008s are big and massively tannic, while the 2009s are much more sexy and silky. The 2010s combine intense, rich fruit and huge tannins. All three vintages are exceptional, but my preference is for 2009 and 2010. Incidentally, two of the greatest wines I tasted this year were the 2001 Madrona Ranch and Thorevilos, both of which remain infants. Fax (707) 963-5104

As outstanding as all the Abreu wines are, if I had to choose one that stands apart from the others it would be Thorevilos. The 2008 Thorevilos is the most complete and deeply satisfying of Abreu’s 2008s because the balance of fruit and structure is so impeccable. The 2008 literally explodes onto the palate with masses of dark fruit, tar, licorice and smoke. There is a fleshiness and depth of the fruit here that separates the Thorevilos from the other 2008s. Layers of fruit build towards the massive, masculine finish. In 2008 Thorevilos is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc and 15% Petit Verdot. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2038. Dec 2011, www.robertparker.com