2006 Philipponnat Mareuil-Sur-Ay

Disgorged December 2015, dosage 4.5 g/l. 100% Pinot, 50% fermented in oak without malo. The other 50% fermented in tank and part goes thro malo. Very pale gold. Creamy and a touch of spice, but still plenty of fruit and surprisingly clear citrus for a Pinot wine. There's some rounded texture here and it is fresh but definitely has less intensity on the mid palate than the Blanc de Noirs 2009 and the Cuvée 1522 2007 just tasted. The oak effect is very subtle but it gives a cedary touch on the finish. Long but much less driven than the aforementioned wines. (JH)

The 2006 Extra Brut Mareuil-sur-Aÿ was fermented in equal parts oak and tank, but with no malolactic fermentation. The vinification in oak gives the wine just enough textural depth and richness to balance the no-dosage style. As is often the case, Pinots from Mareuil have a slight gamy edge that is intriguing. This deeply expressive Mareuil Pinot is endowed with real class, not to mention considerable personality. It is another highlight in this range from Philipponnat. Dosage is 4.5 grams/liter. Disgorged: February 2015.