2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Tradition

(60% grenache, 25% syrah and 15% mourvedre; one-third of this wine was raised in barriques, the rest in concrete): Ruby-red. Red and dark berries on the nose, with smoke and licorice nuances adding complexity. Round and fleshy on the palate, with a touch of warmth to the ripe, open-knit cherry and blackberry flavors. Finishes with good power and lingering dark fruit qualities, but I'd like to have seen more vivacity and shape.

Made from an identical blend, the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition reveals deep kirsch liqueur notes intermixed with raspberries, smoked herbs, roasted meats and hoisin sauce. Complex, with great fruit, a voluptuous mouthfeel, low acidity and sweet tannin, it can be consumed over the next 10-15 years. This morsellated estate, which has nearly 50 acres of vines (all organically farmed) spread throughout the appellation, has been resurrected and reinvigorated by Francois and Marie Giraud, whose cellars are in the northwest area of the village of Chateauneuf du Pape, close to Clos du Mont Olivet. Philippe Cambie, the consulting oenologist, has helped make this one of the up-and-coming super-stars of the appellation. In top vintages, three cuvees are produced, the classic Tradition along with single vineyard offerings from the Les Gallimardes lieu-dit and a spectacular wine called Les Grenaches de Pierre from 105 year old Grenache vines planted in pure sand from the Grand Pierre lieu-dit adjacent to Chateau Rayas. A white Chateauneuf du Pape is also produced. The 2009 red Chateauneuf du Papes performed better from bottle than they did last year from barrel. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

A fantastic base cuvee, the 2009 Domaine Giraud Châteauneuf-du-Pape Tradition is a blend of 60% Grenache, 35% Syrah, and 5% Mourvèdre, with the Grenache and Mourvèdre aged all in enamel coated tanks, and the Syrah in smaller Bordeaux barrels. Open and perfumed on the nose, the wine delivers loads of sweet raspberry, wild flowers, and red currant-like characteristics to go with a medium to full-bodied, richly fruited palate. The finish shows a solid dose of tannin, and this outstanding red should benefit from a year or three in the cellar, and drink well for a decade.