2013 Vosne Romanee

(tasted from cuve , where it was awaiting a December bottling): Bright dark red. Dark berries and a touch of leesy reduction on the nose. Juicy, tight and on the lean side, showing a slight herbal (but not vegetal) edge to the flavors of black cherry, licorice and violet. The firmly tannic, slightly peppery finish shows a saline nuance and good energy. Production of this wine will be just 9 barrels, down from 30 in the past, as the estate sold off its fruit from La Commune, whose heavier soils yield less elegant wines.

The 2013 Vosne-Romanée Village, without the addition of “Les Commune” for the first time, has a lifted dark cherry and blackberry leaf nose, nicely defined and quite vigorous. The palate is medium-bodied with supple ripe tannins, nicely judged acidity and a very linear finish that just needs to develop a little more complexity by the time of bottle.

This is being sold as a deluxe village wine with a change of composition – no commune grapes. 25% new oak. Just a third of the old volumes. Vigneux, from the bottom of Brûlées because they don’t reckon it’s up to premier cru standard – a little bit rustic. It also includes some young vines of grand cru. Scented and fresh and vigourous. Lots of energy. Kerpow. Just a little hard on the end. Long and lively. (JR)