2014 Leoville Barton

Incredibly classic in style, the still-youthful, ruby-hued 2014 Château Léoville Barton reveals textbook cassis, tobacco, sappy herbs, and mineral notes. Medium-bodied, focused, and pure, this elegant Saint-Julien has fine tannins, nicely integrated structure, and beautiful overall balance. It has plenty of depth and will continue to drink nicely for another 15-20 years. Drink 2025-2044.

The 2014 Léoville Barton has a seductive and beautifully composed bouquet with ample brambly red fruit, sous-bois and light pencil shavings scents. This has real finesse. The palate is well balanced with fine tannins, a keen line of acidity and more salinity than its peers. What feels like top-quality new oak smooths the finish but does not impose itself. This is a classy Saint-Julien from the Barton family. Tasted blind at the Southwold 10-Year-On tasting.

Tasted blind. Black core, garnet rim. Intense, generous blackcurrant fruit. Just a touch meaty as it opens. Dense, too. Not easy at the moment and the tannins need a lot more time. Retasted later: dark and rich but not easy at all. I upped the score by half a point on retasting because that meatiness seemed to be part of the wine (rather than brett). Not welcoming right now. Needs a lot of time. (JH)