2006 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley

Good deep ruby-red. Cassis, licorice pastille, violet, incense and sexy smoky oak on the nose. Densely packed, intense and sweet but the most backward and primary of these 2006s. Wonderfully full, chocolatey fruit saturates the palate. Quilceda Creek's flagship bottling has become more of a competition wine lately than this producer's examples in the '80s and '90s, but this very powerful wine boasts greater vibrancy and focus than recent vintages and seems as much Pauillac in character as Napa Valley cult wine Finishes ripe but classically dry, with terrific medicinal reserve and slowly building tannins that reach the front teeth. A bit youthfully monolithic now, this really demands cellaring.

Deep ruby-red. Sweet blackberry, cassis, licorice pastille and violet on the nose, plus a whiff of mocha. Very fresh flavors of crushed blackberry, bitter chocolate and menthol boast excellent definition and lift, with exotic floral and spice notes adding nuance. The most complete vintage yet for this bottling, finishing with suave, building tannins and complex notes of cocoa powder, dried flowers and incense. Not at all overly sweet. Especially remarkable in light of the fact that these vines were planted in 2001 and 2002. (ST)

This is the first vintage of the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Palengat Vineyard, located in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The wine also contains 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. Purple-colored, it offers up a splendid perfume of wood smoke, spice box, pencil lead, espresso, violets, black currant, and blackberry. Full-bodied, plush, and concentrated, it is already revealing considerable complexity despite the youth of the vines. In spite of its size, the wine manages to retain a sense of elegance, a trademark of all of Quilceda Creek’s wines. (JM)