2010 Mas La Plana

Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2010 represents the 40th vintage of this signature Cabernet sourced from a single vineyard of 29 ha. Impeccably made, showing a bit of everything, cassis, cedar and dried herbs. Very complex and earthy. It is really polished and perfectly mature now. Very well made and exemplary Mediterranean Cabernet. (FC)

40th vintage of an historic wine. After studying in France, Miguel A Torres planted Cabernet Sauvignon in the Mas La Plana vineyard in 1966. The 1970 vintage, then called Gran Coronas Reserva, was entered into the Gault Millau Wine Olympics of 1979 – held three years after the Judgment of Paris, and 'beat' a host of much more famous Cabernets. The 2010 growing season was particularly cool and wet. Deep crimson. Reticent on the nose – presumably the Torres team are pleased that this is far from overripe? – just vaguely sweet Cabernet. Slightly austere on the palate but good freshness. I'm afraid this doesn't immediately speak to me. The balance is fine but it doesn't seem especially expressive. I recall a special tasting Miguel A Torres organised for me in London many years ago. It provided my first definitive example of a wine affected by low level TCA because, while it seemed okay if not outstanding to me, Miguel immediately recognised that it was suffering from low level TCA and had been robbed of its fruit. I do think the same could be true of this wine. Lot no 2207MA. (JR)

Routine and safe, well made and flawless in terms of build – but lacks a bit of wow factor. Worth ageing to tease that out? (RH)