2013 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee

A big step up (I always find a bigger quality gap from the Les Olivets to the Reserve than from the Reserve to the Prestige), the 2013 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve is medium-bodied and charming, with lots of Grenache character in its damp underbrush, wild herb, blackcurrant and licorice-laced black raspberry fruit. Like all of the cuvées here, its tannins are ripe and polished, it’s balanced and has tons to like. It will have 10-12 years of overall longevity.

Bright purple. Musky earth- and spice-tinged cherry and dark berry scents are lifted by a peppery note and a hint of fresh rose. Broad and seamless on the palate, offering sweet blackberry and cherry liqueur flavors and a touch of dark chocolate. Shows increasing energy with air and finishes long and smooth, with easygoing tannins and an echo of cracked pepper.

Strongly defined red fruit with a boiled-sweet character to it. Relentlessly ripe. Very much in accordance with expectations, but it is not for sensitive souls. (RH)