2013 Chapelle Chambertin

Bright medium red. Pungent limestone lift to the aromas of raspberry and spices. Densely packed and energetic, with powerful, primary red berry flavors complemented by strong salty mineral extract. This chewy, highly concentrated wine conveys an impression of full ripeness with restraint. Finishes ripely tannic and very long, with a tactile solidity. This wine may well eventually merit an even higher rating.

(made from Domaine Louis Jadot's oldest pinot vines, along with those in Clos de Bèze, planted in 1920 and 1921): Bright, dark red. Precise, vibrant aromas of raspberry, cherry, stone and flowers. Wonderfully sappy and saline in the mouth, conveying a fine-grained texture and great class to the lightly salty flavors of red fruits and flowers. Perfectly integrated acidity extends the fruit on the long back end. Perfectly balanced pinot. Frédéric Barnier advises drinking it "every day for the rest of your life" but if I had a bottle or two of this elixir, I'd wait a decade.

The 2013 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru has a tightly-wound bouquet: raspberry preserve, crushed strawberry, a touch of truffle and forest-floor scents (perhaps a hint of ceps coming through). The palate is medium-bodied with supple, ripe tannins and good acidity. This is very harmonious and sleek in the mouth, although I would have liked more personality to come through on the finish, that, like the Charmes-Chambertin, is showing a lot of wood at present.