2009 Imperial Reserva

100% Tempraniilo. Fermented in oak vats and steel tank, 2 years in French and American oak. Very dark crimson and still so youthful-looking. Fragrant with dark fruit and toasty oak and a strong vanilla character and a slight minty note. Compared with the Contino 2008 just tasted, this smells and tastes very modern, with a very strong oak flavour that I think needs even longer to die back. It is all still so primary. Dense, chewy tannins but all wrapped up in dark fruit that is more like blackcurrant and blackberry than the anticipated redder fruit of Rioja. I wouldn't open this for a while unless you love obvious oak. (JH)

Boldly oaked, but not in the over the top way that so many object to. Gentle, powdery tannin, great clarity of flavour. Textbook Rioja. (RH)

(85% tempranillo, 10% graciano and 5% mazuelo): Vivid ruby. A complex, expansive bouquet evokes ripe cherry and blackberry complicated by suggestions of pipe tobacco, vanilla, leather and potpourri. Sappy, penetrating and smoky on the palate, offering sweet cherry-cola and dark berry compote flavors that become zestier and spicier with air. Dusty tannins build on the strikingly long, expansive finish, which shows excellent clarity, repeating spiciness and lingering dark fruit character. For a world-class, ageworthy red wine this is a remarkable value.