2012 Charmes Chambertin

Full medium red. Subtly complex aromas of red fruits, dried spices and licorice. Sappy and high-pitched on the palate, showing terrific juiciness and cut for the vintage. A real red-fruit-and-spice bomb with terrific lift from the whole-cluster vinification (30% in 2012). Very long and brisk on the back end.

(from vines in Mazoyeres, planted in the 1950s; "always a lot of shot berries here," according to Magnien): Aromas of blueberry, red licorice, rose petal and menthol. Juicy but very tightly wound, with penetrating flavors of bitter red fruits complicated by sexy soil tones. Very intense but very closed, even a bit dry today on the aftertaste. This will need a later bottling--and another look next year.

The 2012 Charmes Chambertin has a light bouquet with scents of strawberry and cranberry, strong earthy and almost leathery scents emerging in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe tannins, compact dark berry fruit and a rather abrupt finish that needs more flesh and plushness in keeping with Charmes-Chambertin style. It feels a little gawky at the moment so I would afford it another couple of years. Jun 2015, www.robertparker.com