2012 Chambolle Musigny La Combe d'Orvaux

(tasted from barrel): Good bright, dark red. Pure, high-pitched aromas of raspberry and crushed stone. Juicy, intense and penetrating, with lovely chalky energy to the raspberry and floral flavors. At once weightless and palate-staining, with a subtle, saline, building finish.

30% new oak. Never been racked. Charming with bright fruit and a good spine and structure. Very charming and fresh. Dry finish but not too dry. Very flattering overall. (JR)

The 2012 Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau was taken directly from barrel on the lees. It has a perfumed bouquet with dried petals infusing the lifted fresh strawberry and red cherry scents that build in volume in the glass. The palate is underpinned by a sorbet-like freshness, very fine tannins and concludes with a satisfying, feminine and refined finish. What a lovely wine this will be! After modest success with her 2011s, it was great to come back to this domaine to find eternally youthful pixie-like Anne Gros back on form with a gaggle of gorgeous 2012s. Anne, the cousin of Bernard, Michel and Anne-Francoise, is one of the most conscientious winemakers I know, somebody who lives for her family, whether that is her three children or her vines. She exacts a meticulous picking, which in 2012 commenced on 21 September and lasted over three weeks until the 15 October up in her “Hautes Cotes” vines. I have written several times about this domaine, which I visited on my first Burgundy trip back in 1997. They have a slightly modern sheen like her cousin Bernard Gros, but here they are slightly more nuanced and terroir-driven. Quantities are small and sought after, and in 2012 her piece de resistance might not be the Richebourg, rather one of the best Clos de Vougeot wines of the vintage. But do not ignore either her excellent Hautes Cotes de Nuits white or red (or indeed her superb joint venture with partner Jean-Paul Tollot down in sunny Minnervois.) Importers: various importers (go to http://www.anne-gros.com/en/in-the-world.html) and several importers in both the US and UK.