2013 Brane Cantenac

84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. 21.9 hl/ha. Early Merlot lacked quality hence the small percentage in the blend. Pale crimson hue. Simple nose. Lighter-bodied but juicy. The finish is, however, rather hard and abrasive. Probably an underlying lack of ripeness. Not for the long term. (JL)

The 2013 Brane-Cantenac was a season beleaguered by botrytis, though optical sorting could remedy part of that problem. It is certainly not a write-off with pleasant blackberry and raspberry fruit. It lacks the mineralité of the 2012, but there is no greenness here. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, well balanced and surprisingly supple for the vintage with that dab of balsamic enhancing the finish. If you must drink a wine from this vintage, this should be the one. Tasted at the Brane-Cantenac vertical at the château in September 2025.

A famously challenging vintage, and for sure this is one of the earlier drinking of the recent vintages, but you will still find plenty of character in the glass, with charred tobacco leaf and softly brambled red fruits. Harvest September 25 to October 7, ph3.58. Eric Boissenot consultant, Henri Lurton owner, Christophe Capdeville technical director. The low yields of 21.9hl/h tell you how carefully they sorted. 70% new French oak for ageing.