2012 Richebourg
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Note di degustazione
Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Richebourg Grand Cru from Domaine Gros Frère & Soeur has another slight reduction on the nose, savoury with Italian cured meat/delicatessen aromas coming through and then a strong scent that bought to mind the word - fishmonger! The winemaking here is more articulated than the terroir. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit, slightly dry tannin with coca sprinkled liberally over the finish. So easy to nail the producer under blind conditions - it is not a bad Richebourg, but outclassed with the ranks of Grivot and indeed, his sister Anne-François's own Richebourg.
Punteggi della critica
Punteggio medio
Allen Meadows, Burghound
Neal Martin
Altre recensioni e punteggi
Not surprisingly, the 2012 Richebourg is quite reticent. Crushed rose petals, mint, anise and incense emerge, but only with great reluctance. Firm tannins dominate in a wine built for the cellar. Today, the Richebourg is all about potential.
The 2012 Richebourg Grand Cru comes from Bernard’s 0.68-hectare parcel between Cros Parantoux and Aux Brulees towards the upper part of the slope. It has the best bouquet by far: fragrant redcurrant and raspberry fruit, palpable mineralite and engaging floral scents emerging with time, all very well defined and carrying the oak with ease. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, well-judged acidity and a sense of composure and grace on the focused finish. There are touches of licorice just lingering on the long aftertaste. This is very fine full-bodied Richebourg that is ravishing and decadent. Bernard gave me a superb boogie-woogie rendition of “Amazing Grace” on his Steinway, one that Jools Holland would be proud of, following my tasting of 2012s His grand piano, parked in a cavernous annex of his renovated cellar, is truly something to behold. There it stands against the craggy, fissured limestone walls that form a jaw-dropping juxtaposition against what appears to be the dance-floor at Studio 54. I’ve been visiting this address ever since I started in the wine trade and Bernard Gros’s style has remained unchanged during that period. These are big wines lavished in new oak – always have been and maybe always will be. I cannot help feeling that the range would be improved without resorting 100% new oak on every single cuvee from the village Vosne-Romanee upwards and I sometimes question the practice of heating the wines to 40 degrees for 24 hours to give rounder tannins. Is that over-egging an already very tasty cake? The wines are occasionally subjugated by the new wood and my experience of mature bottles suggests that they never quite shake it off, although there are Burgundy lovers who appreciate that style, perhaps in Japan where Bernard enjoys a strong following. When you start reaching the grand crus, in particular the Richebourg, only then you can see that the intense fruit is able to carry the wood and fully absorb it, allowing the terroir to show through. Bernard Gros is one of Vosne-Romanee’s most entertaining winemakers. I just hope that in future vintages he’ll just retreat a little from the cooperage so that we can see his propitious vineyards. Importer: Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; tel. (650) 328-6639
While the wood is hardly shy here it's more moderate as it allows the floral and spice nuances on the red currant and black pinot fruit to be seen. There is good underlying tension to the mineral-inflected broad-shouldered flavors that possess fine depth and length if not the structure of a classic example. To be sure this is not soft but it should drink well unusually early. Tasted: Jan 15, 2014. Drink: 2024+
Informazioni sul produttore
Based in Vosne-Romanée, Domaine Gros Frère & Sœur is a relatively large estate for the Côte de Nuits with an impressive portfolio of wines including three Grands Crus (Richebourg, Clos de Vougeot and Echezeaux).