2012 Nuits St Georges Les Cailles

The 2012 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles comes from a 1-hectare plot. Bouchard makes two vats, one of which is de-stemmed. It has a very fragrant, very intense bouquet with black cherries, cassis and violets. The palate has a very supple entry with a fine line of acidity. It feels so juicy in the mouth, although that belies the fine tannins that underpin the finish. This is one of the best reds from Bouchard this year. Although I tasted the wines of this Burgundy grand maison in London, I spent a morning with winemaker Philippe Prost to go through at least part of their large portfolio to get an insight into Bouchard Pere & Fils. Ever since Michel Bouchard established the house in 1731, it has been a permanent fixture in Burgundy, surviving seizure by the State after the Revolution, phylloxera, two World Wars and periods when the world simply was uninterested in Burgundy. Today they own 130 hectares of vines, more than any Bordeaux chateau, including 12 grand crus and 74 premier crus. Importer: Henriot Inc. and John E. Fells in the UK.

Ripe, lightly spiced damson fruit. Ripe but not at all overripe. Dry and chalky on the palate, the fruit just deep enough to fill out the structure but there's a finesse to this even in its current tucked-in state. (JH)

(50% vendange entier): Bright red-ruby. Vibrant aromas of violet, bitter chocolate and iron, lifted by a chalky element. Juicy, savory and light on its feet, showing a fine-grained texture and a light touch, with sexy oak spices adding nuance. Finishes with smooth tannins and excellent length.