1985 Palmer

Tasted at the Château Palmer vertical in London, the 1985 Château Palmer was clearly a favourite amongst the participants in the tasting, although here I actually concur with Robert Parker - it's a pleasant Margaux, but not the most complex wine of the vintage. You get the feeling that it doesn't fire on all cylinders. It has an appealing bacon fact and savory bouquet - a little smudged, but full of charm. The palate is fleshy on the entry, perhaps here with a touch of brettanomyces, the acidity nicely judged with expressive Merlot defining the finish. It does not "take off" as the greatest 1985s are wont to do, yet you would contentedly polish off a bottle, seduced by its easy-going nature. Tasted May 2015.

Some frost in 1985 but not at Palmer. Cold winter and early spring. Then very good weather. Sunny and hot after flowering. 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot. Deep brick-rimmed garnet. Bright and healthy. Plenty of leather and old furniture and undergrowth but still has a fine floral note – a violet fragrance – as well as the headiness of dark fruit in alcohol. An attractive note of dusty stones. Light lavender. Very perfumed. Touch of mint and cigar box and liquorice. Complex and fresh. On the palate, mouthwatering freshness, completely dissolved tannins and scented on the mid palate. Fine and long and really mouthwatering, Opens up to more capsicum on the nose and tobacco. Lots more liquorice on the finish. Going back at the end of the evening: meaty and gamey with aromas of truffles but in no way falling apart. Silky and fresh and lots of liquorice. (JH)

This wine has consistently been attractive, elegant, and fruity, with a deep ruby color that is now revealing some amber and orange at the edge. The wine's low acidity has resulted in an up-front forwardness, but there is neither the depth nor extract one expects in a top vintage of Palmer. Nevertheless, it is a well-made, richly fruity, fragrant wine with no hard edges that is ideal for present consumption. Anticipated maturity: Now-2004. Last tasted 9/97