2009 Pavillon Blanc du Ch Margaux

Proprietor Paul Pontallier is pulling back considerably from the higher alcohol, fuller styles that he was producing as recently as 2007. I am not sure it is the best idea, but this is still a vivid, vibrant 100% Sauvignon, with loads of minerality and almost unbridled notes of grapefruit and white currants in a medium-bodied, crisp, somewhat tart style. Drink it over the next 20+ years.

Spicy, slightly stinky, catty nose. Rather more lift than in some recent vintages. Lanolin and richness but lots of lemon and grapefruit too. They are picking a bit earlier and not including the very ripest grapes because the alcohols were getting just a bit too high – sometimes over 15%. This was 'scary', they started reacting in 2008 but nature helped. Much reduced crop – see the video . Minerals and tension quite different from the old fat style. Very interesting. Should age longer. Perhaps less distinctive – more like a particularly refined Pessac-Léognan? (JR)

Shows impressive aromas of lemon rind and papaya, with hints of cream. Full and very layered, with the density of a red wine. Long and flavorful, offering a pretty balance of ripe fruit and acidity like a grand cru Burgundy. The château says that they have pulled back the alcohol and given the wine a little more freshness and length. It worked