2008 Vosne Romanee Les Brulees

The Meo-Camuzet 2008 Vosne-Romanee Les Brulees – tasted from thank –displays what for this vintage and address is by now familiar blackberry jam, here flatteringly mingled with violet and lily perfume; nutmeg, vanilla and cocoa powder; and a carnal and salted caramel melange that calls to mind roasting pan drippings. Heady in aroma and splendidly rich and expansive on the palate, this creams-over its formidable tannins with sheer lush fruit and torrified confections while preserving an invigorating, mouthwatering salinity and animal savor. Palate staining and generous though this is, its strong tannins hang on long enough to have the very last, slightly disconcertingly austere word, reinforced by a suggestion of stone-licking. After a few spits, I had a bit of a time getting my tongue back in between my incisors and my faintly numb gums. I suspect this will want 5-7 years in cellar and be worth holding – and, of course, periodically savoring – for at least 15 years. Jean-Nicolas Meo emphasized the contrast between the low pHs of his 2008s (typical, of course, for this vintage in general) and the high pHs of 2007, which ironically – since the latter were given a higher dosage of sulfur as a precaution against undesirable bacteriological activity – led, he reported, to 2007s that showed a harder side initially than many of the corresponding 2008s. Given the high acids of 2008, says Meo, he preferred to let the fruit hang longer – even despite some shriveling – so that few of the musts were chaptalized and most were 13% or higher in natural alcohol. Typical for this address, the wines display admirable, even unusually strong sweetness of fruit, but in 2008 accompanied by prominent tannins and notes of new wood. Meo compares his 2008s with 2001 and 1996, opining that his wines from those two vintages have for the most part – in contrast with many 1993s – evolved nicely and without exhibiting excessive stiffness or hardness. I caught some 2008s in bottle and others from tank just before bottling, and the several 2007s I tasted alongside showed well, although Meo – in contrast with most growers – thinks his 2008 fruit was superior even in sheer ripeness. (Negociant wines – some from parcels the Meos in fact farm – are noted as “Frere et Soeur.”) Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Also a Jean-Marie de Champs Selection (various importers), French fax 011 33 3 80 22 58 25

Good deep red. Sexy, inviting nose combines cherry, minerals and coffee. Silky and suave on entry, then very ripe but vibrant and juicy in the middle palate, with a mineral pungency leavening the wine's sweetness. Wonderfully tactile, energetic premier cru with superb length. But this is also thoroughly ripe: Meo notes that the pH is not particularly low for 2008.

Quite heady and indeed a bit burnt. Racy on the palate – very fresh and polished. Suave. Lip-smacking and refreshing though a bit dry on the end. (JR)