2010 Clos Vougeot

The 2010 Clos Vougeot impresses with its length and sheer purity. Red berries, flowers, mint and crushed rocks are all woven together in a focused, vibrant wine of notable pedigree. A virile, imposing finish rounds things out in style. There is no shortage of personality here. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030. Olivier Bernstein is one of the younger generation of micro-negociants who owns no vineyards, but rather sources fruit from a variety of vineyards. In just a few years Bernstein has put together an impressive collection of wines from some of the Cote d’Or’s most prestigious appellations. Bernstein describes 2010 as a vintage with a lot of millerandage (shot berries). The 2010s were vinified with 50% stems and the malos finished in July, which is fairly standard for the year. None of the 2010s had been racked at the time of my visit in late November 2011 and bottling was planned for March and April 2012. Stylistically, these are fleshy, generous wines that stand apart for their textural depth. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, imported by: Fine Vines LLC, Melrose Park. IL; tel. (708) 343-6702

In the middle and slightly south. Rather broad and attractive. Meaty and lively on the nose. Broad and sumptuous. Very forward. Very fine. (JR)

Bright red-ruby. Slightly reduced aromas of black cherry, licorice and game cleared with aeration to show higher-pitched violet perfume and espresso. Compellingly sappy and concentrated in the mouth, with outstanding lift and palate saturation to the black fruit flavors. Finishes with superb tannins and terrific structure for aging. Really leaves the taste buds quivering.