2009 Clos Vougeot

Good full red. Inviting, slightly high-toned aromas of plum, black cherry, licorice and beefsteak tomato. Rich, dense and penetrating, showing lovely definition to its dark fruit and soil flavors. This is close to 14% alcohol but comes across as fresh, thanks in part to the influence of the stems. This round, deep, refined Clos Vougeot finishes with lush, noble tannins and outstanding length. Much more refined than the Echezeaux.

Much muddier on the nose than the 2010. And lighter in the middle. Some real juice in the middle. Succulent. Just surrounded by a bit of structure. A firm finish but no suggestion of overripeness. (JR)

(half of this wine is made with whole clusters, the other half destemmed; my note is on the blend) Good ruby-red. Rich aromas of blackberry, chocolate, espresso and flinty minerality, with pepper and menthol notes from the stem influence. Then large-scaled and creamy but with solid underlying structure and noteworthy tension in spite of having the highest pH of these 2009s. More backward and medicinal than the Grands-Echezeaux. Really builds on the back end, finishing very long and rich, with powerful tannins that will require at least several years of bottle aging. Cabernet-like in its volume and structure. Incidentally, winemaker Mallard noted that the vendange entier component gives the blend its bones, while the destemmed portion provides the flesh, but I found a sample of the former component to be wonderfully full, sweet and creamy.