2007 Clos Vougeot

(this large holding, situated at the highest point of the cru, was vinified in two lots, one destemmed and the other with whole clusters) Full ruby-red. Sweet aromas of black raspberry, smoked meat and pungent minerals. Lush and broad on entry, then creamy and sappy in the middle, with a pungent spiciness lifting the cassis and black cherry flavors. A wonderfully balanced and vibrant wine that saturates the palate on the back half. Finishes with noble tannins and terrific energy. Prior to tasting this approximation of the final wine, I was also able to sample the two components, and was amazed to see how the destemmed portion was able to absorb the stem component, which was too tough on its own. Exciting potential here.

All destemmed. Very, very dark tea leaf and treacle on the nose. Quite round and gamey and very gentle in a Bordeaux context but maybe too soft in a Burgundy context. Round and dark and seductive. Trying much harder than most Clos de Vougeot. Disappears quite fast. (JR)

An elegant, ripe and expressive wine that is very densely fruited with obvious floral notes that include rose petal and violets introduces rich, full, powerful and concentrated flavors that possess more minerality than is typically the case for a classic Clos de Vougeot, all wrapped in a textured, precise, fresh and energetic finish. This has plenty of underlying tension and as good as the Grands Echézeaux is, and it is indeed excellent, the Clos de Vougeot is simply at another level. A spectacular wine for the vintage but made for the long-term.