2010 Clos Vougeot

The 2010 Clos de Vougeot shows terrific energy and persistence. There is an attractive juiciness to the mid-palate that balances the wine's structural elements. Floral notes add lift on the finish. The oak is a bit prominent, but I doubt that will be much of an issue by the time this is ready to drink, which isn't going to be anytime soon.

The 2010 Clos de Vougeot shows terrific energy and persistence. There is an attractive juiciness to the mid-palate that balances the wine’s structural elements. Floral notes add lift on the finish. The oak is a bit prominent, but I doubt that will be much of an issue by the time this is ready to drink, which isn’t going to be anytime soon. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2040. I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted with Thibault Liger-Belair. Thibault’s core holdings are the remaining vestiges of his family’s portion of the original Liger-Belair estate that was sold in the early 1930s. In recent years, Liger-Belair has added a few negociant wines to augment his range. Thibault Liger-Belair is the largest owner of the Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les St. Georges and the leading proponent of the movement to have the vineyard classified as a Grand Cru. Liger-Belair’s decision to taste his Les St. Georges in between the Clos de Vougeot and Richebourg makes an eloquent case. In fact, words are pretty much superfluous at that point. I will report on Liger-Belair’s 2009s in the April issue. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

(100% destemmed): Good full bright red. Crushed black cherry, licorice, spicy oak and a whiff of iodine on the nose. Vibrant and saline, with powerful red and black fruit flavors that seem a bit energetically extracted. This sappy, imploded wine finishes with serious, somewhat tough tannins. Very rich but likely to require a solid decade in the cellar. Am I underrating this?