2011 Clos Vougeot

The 2011 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru comes from a 0.18-hectare plot toward Grands Echezeaux and spends 18 months entirely in new oak. It has a dusky, bell pepper-scented bouquet with macerated dark cherries, black plum and blackberry with a side order of chimney soot. The palate is a little brusque on the entry with firm tannins and bold black cherry and boysenberry fruit, but the finish is very curt and leaves you expecting more. Drink now-2017. I have regularly tasted the wines from Maison Ambroise since I commenced the raft of Burgundy tastings in London. Bertrand Ambroise took over the running of the ancient Primeaux-Prissey- based negociant in 1987, and whenever I have met him, he seems to be a conscientious vigneron that cares deeply for his wine. The tenets here are all admirable: organic viticulture, handpicked fruit, rigorous sorting, minimal use of sulphur and so forth. But – and it is a big “but” – I have consistently found the wines to be smothered in superfluous new oak and at a time when many growers are generally reconsidering, and in many cases retreating from, its usage. Tasting through their 2011s seemed to say more about the cooperage than the individuality of the terroirs. Here, 100% new oak is used for both the premier and grand cru wines and it rendered them uniform and even a little passe. There is clearly high quality fruit here and there is also a keen focus upon creating the best wines possible. However, I have always felt that if Ambroise could dial down that new oak (not eradicate it completely) to a level commensurate with the fruit concentration in each cuvee, they would reveal far more personality. Still, there are some good wines to be found such as the Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Vaucrains and a respectable Corton-Rognets. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

A touch fresher than the Corton. Then pretty dry and firm on the palate, lacking the fruit to fill out the frame. May take on flesh but I wouldn't pay this for it. (JH)

A cool, reserved and agreeably fresh nose of a mix of red orchard fruit aromas that are liberally laced with earth nuances is in keeping with the equally earthy yet restrained flavors that culminate in an austere, balanced and impressively persistent finish. This is not an especially structured effort, especially for a Clos de Vougeot from Grand Maupertuis, and the minerality adds an attractive touch of elegance. Tasted: Jan 14, 2013. Drink: 2021+