2005 Chambolle Musigny Aux Echanges

From the 2.3 acre premier cru portion of an obscure and relatively low-elevation site that is the monopole of an investment consortium, Potel’s 2005 Chambolle-Musigny Aux Echanges is one of the few Potel wines that endured a protracted malo, finishing only in December after being transferred to tank. Aromas and flavors of salted cassis and blackberry, wood smoke, tea, narcissus, smoked meat and soy make a highly-concentrated and complex impression. The long finish here is dark and brooding in a vintage-typical way, meaty, smoky and black-fruited. This wine temporarily betrays its recent bottling following such a late malo. A Chambolle Hauts Doix seemed completely depressed from recent sulfuring and bottling, and was impossible to fairly assess. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700.