NV Tarlant Brut Reserve

This could pass as an Extra Brut, but it has the depth of mature character (dried apple, pear and cranberry) to carry the very dry style with ease. Only at the long finish is the crisp acidity quite pronounced and the overall impression quite austere. A blend of one third chardonnay, one third pinot noir and one third pinot meunier, based on the 2014 vintage. Disgorged in February 2021. Drink now.

In April, I tasted two different versions of the NV Brut Reserve at the domaine in Oeuilly, Marne Valley. The first is based on the 2009 vintage and was disgorged with a dosage of 5.8 grams per liter in early 2017. The wine offers a rich and intense bouquet with brioche, bread and toast aromas. On the palate, this is a pure, fresh and fruity assemblage of the three main Champagne varieties. This Reserve reveals remarkable finesse and elegance as well as charming roundness. The other NV Brut Reserve is based on the 2011 vintage (60%) plus reserve wines and was disgorged in January 2018. It’s very clear and fresh on the nose, with bright fruit aromas and remarkable purity. Intense and elegant on the palate, with lots of Meunier flavors at this early stage, this is an elegant, well-structured and persistent Champagne with raspberry and cherry flavors on the finish. It is really fresh and pure, with redcurrant flavors in the aftertaste. Dosed with 5.8 grams per liter.

Oueilly. Pale gold. Light and tight knit – neat nose. A bit green and coarse on the front palate and some staleness of fruit. The sort of wine that you expect to come out of a not-very-good co-op. Tiring. (JR)