2002 Harlan Estate Proprietary Red

The extraordinary Harlan Estate, which I awarded 100 points seven years ago, offers no justifiable reason to doubt its perfect score. It is still a baby, with an inky purple color and notes of smoky camphor intermixed with creme de cassis, Asian soy and a hint of cedar beginning to emerge as well as some espresso and subtle damp forest floor notes. The wine has awesome intensity, a full-bodied mouthfeel, a skyscraper-like texture, and a finish that goes on for close to a minute. This is a perfect wine, still youthful and young, and not even in full adolescence as of 2012. It has 40 or more years ahead of it, but should hit its plateau of full maturity in another 5-10 years. It is certainly one of the most showy , flamboyant and remarkable Harlan Estates made to date. (More recently, the 2007 tends to resemble this wine more than any other vintage I can think of.) Kudos to Bill Harlan! Tel. (707) 944-1441; Fax (707) 944-1444

Luxurious red velvet look with a deep brick rim. Extremely voluptuous and flattering – essence of Napa Valley and the richest form of Cabernet Sauvignon – obviously pretty alcoholic but reined in on the finish. Really caresses the palate. Round and rich. Fleshy and opulent. Positively slides over the palate with just a hint of tea leaves on the finish which keeps it refreshing. Harlan has arguably perfected the art of producing Napa Valley Cabernet that is nothing at all like red bordeaux but succeeds on its own terms. (JR)