2001 Bonnes Mares

Roumier's 2001 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru was showing very well indeed and was more open for inspection than a bottle I enjoyed 11 months ago, offering up a complex bouquet of real depth, featuring ripe red cherry, peony, undergrowth and venison, framed by a discrete touch of nutty new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a chewy chassis of youthful tannins, an ample core of fruit and a firm, sapid finish. While this misses the intensity and ineffable completeness of the greatest Roumier vintages, this Bonnes Mares is an undeniable success, and it will continue to develop for two decades.

Still dark ruby. Still relatively dumb! But with some candied-violets aroma. Good concentration of fruit even if without massive lift. Pretty sturdy still. There is intensity here but not that much flavour. Wait? (JR)

Good deep red. Very sexy, soil-driven scents of plum, mocha, redcurrant, graphite and spices. Showing plenty of truffley underbrush but also superb inner-mouth energy and spice character to its plum and dark berry fruit. In a distinctly dark, earthy, almost austere style, finishing with dusty, fine, integrated tannins, hints of mint and plum, and terrific persistence. This wine is near its peak but there's still more to come.