1972 Bonnes Mares

This bottle of 1972 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru came without a label, but bought from Avery's auction, therefore provenance is guaranteed. De Vögué's Musigny is renowned, so what of its "little brother"? On first pour, it is clear with some bricking on the rim, a light algae-like tincture that gives away its age and the palate, perhaps a little broad-shouldered and missing élan. However, the second pour is the real wine. Suddenly, the aromatics are much more articulate of their origin, quite a refreshing marine/Japanese wakame scent, touches of dark fruit, not a flamboyant Bonnes-Mares, but strict. The palate has developed much more black fruit, though it is not dense or heavy, arguably a bit short as you might expect for a '72. Yet there is abundant freshness and salinity with a twist of sour cherry on the finish. Delightful. Tasted at Henri restaurant in Washington DC.