NV Diebolt Vallois Blanc de Blanc

A bit frothy and lemony. Not much grip but pretty and evanescent. (JR)

The entirely tank-raised Diebolt-Vallois NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Disg. 3/2013 - based on vintages 2009 and 2010, and fruit from Chouilly, Cuis and Epernay (hence officially premier cru) - brims with juicy fresh apple and pear, garlanded in honeysuckle. On the polished palate, hints of almond emerge; and a delightful tang of pear and apple skin tartness serves for invigoration, while sweet-saline shrimp shell-like notes serves for saliva-inducement in a luscious and refreshing finish. I wouldn't - insofar as this word strikes me as having any remotely clear sense when applied to taste - call this wine notably strong on "mineral character" as advertised by its authors; but it certainly is a delight and should remain so for at least a couple of years. Jacque Diebolt represents the third generation of this family of Alsacienne origin to estate-bottle, a lineage that goes all the way back to the turn of the dawn of the 20th century. He and his wife Nadia nee Vallois have established an enviable reputation and been highly influential in inspiring others to estate-bottle and consumers to appreciate Champagne as a great wine. Well-sited vineyards and a predominance of old vines and selections massales in Cramant, Chouilly, Cuis and Epernay are certainly instrumental in those achievements. Vinification here is typically at low temperature in jacketed stainless steel - which the Diebolts believe conduces to "the expression of minerality" - though certain wines see time in foudres or barriques; and with one exception they routinely undergo malo-lactic transformation. Although most of the wines I tasted had seven grams of residual sugar in common, Madame Vallois-Diebolt sought to assure me that they conduct bench trials in one-gram increments. She added that they bottle a non-dose version of their "tradition" but only at the request of an insistent Belgian client, and I wasn't able to encourage her sufficiently to let me taste it. (This is, incidentally, one of an increasing number of top estates to officially become negociants - trading the little letters "RM" on their labels for "NM" - as a means of expanding their production, but without sacrificing one iota of viticultural control: they merely purchase the fruit from vineyards they now farm that are in the extended family, in this case Nadia Vallois' paternal estate.) Imported by Martine's Wines, Inc., Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400; Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644; and Vintage 59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218

From Cramant, a blend of two years: 2008 and 2009. Cuis and Chouilly. Minerally and lively and solid. Something a little unusually citrus about this. Racy and mineral. Very delicate and flirtatious. Lots of very crisp acidity. Very clean finish. Very broad palate pleasing. Good party wine. (JR)