2009 Meursault Les Tessons

The 2009 Meursault Les Tessons – Cuvee de Mon Plaisir is another of the riper, rounder wines in this lineup. It shows marvelous integrity and persistence all the way through to the creamy finish. Some of the tautness and minerality of the best wines is missing, but in exchange readers will be rewarded with an open, supple Meursault that will deliver immense pleasure with a minimum of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Jean-Marc Roulot is one of the most thoughtful, introspective growers in Burgundy, so it is hardly a surprise his 2009s are so sublime. The domaine has grown to 15 hectares as of the 2011 harvest. Roulot was among a group of investors including Dominique Lafon who purchased Domaine Rene Manuel from Laboure-Roi. Readers can look forward to two new wines from Roulot a Meursault Clos de la Baronne, Meursault Clos de Bouchere, plus a little more production of the Poruzots. Roulot was among the first to harvest, and started picking on September 1st. Accodring to Roulot, the optimal window for picking has become much narrower with today’s increasingly warmer growing seasons. Roulot told me he prefers 2009 to 2008 as the fruit was healthier, with no botrytis or other issues, which resulted in wines of greater focus. The 2009s spent 12 months in oak followed by 6 months in steel with very light and infrequent batonnage. The Bourgogne saw less than 10% new barrels, while the village wines saw 15-18% new barrels and the premier crus 25-30% new barrels. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2010s as they were in full malolactic fermentation. A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and imported by: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Musky aromas of white peach, nut oil and orange oil, with discreet hints of brown spices and quinine. Gives a sweeter impression on entry, showing more apparent sucrosite than some of the foregoing examples. But this one, too, is a classic example of its well-exposed lieu-dit In a distinctly sweet style (the actual r.s. is a moderate 1.7 grams) and likely to give considerable early pleasure.