2010 Cantenac Brown

No concerns about a successful 2010 from this reliably excellent Margaux. Even at almost 15 years old the nose is fairly reserved, reflecting the heft and concentration of the vintage. Give it time to open, and you'll be rewarded with layers of rosebud, tobacco, cassis, blueberry, cocoa, chalky tannins, gunsmoke and peony. Tasted ex-retail, not ex-chateau.

The 2010 Cantenac Brown performed extremely well in the Southwold blind tasting. Here, the nose demands coaxing from the glass before revealing beautifully defined blackberry, boysenberry, earth and mint aromas, perhaps a little more floral than a couple of years ago. Medium-bodied on the palate, this 2010 is focused and delivers plenty of substance; it's quite linear at the moment, yet sophisticated, and is as fresh as a daisy on the finish. Superb. Tasted at the Cantenac Brown vertical at the château.

The 2010 Cantenac Brown feels a little muted on the nose compared to its peers, but with modest aeration it develops very attractive, leafy black fruit, tertiary in style and beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, very well judged acidity and plenty of substance towards the finish. I love the cohesion and focus of this Margaux. I wrote to buy this after its impressive showing at Southwold in 2014 - yet another blind tasting confirms its pedigree. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners 10-Year On Bordeaux horizontal.