2006 Cantenac Brown

A great example of why it's important to think about serving temperature and aerating older Bordeaux. This is a little subdued on opening, but with just 30 minutes in a carafe it spills out rich pencil lead and liquorice notes, softened by hedgerow-brambled blackberry fruits and smoky vanilla spice in the mid palate. Classic Margaux 2006, with fairly high acidity that helps emphasise the floral edge, with refined tannins and the beginning of a tertiary character. The finish emphasises the savoury tannins of a well-aged Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant wine, slightly drying but a juicy mint leaf kick that shows there is plenty of life ahead. This is ready to go today and is extremely drinkable, but there is no rush and it will hold its own for another few decades. An unusual vintage at Cantenac Brown, where they produced only 30% of 1st wine, reflecting a new regime (under then-owner Simon Halabi, who had just arrived at the property) of greater precision in harvesting and sorting. 60% new oak. Coming back to it with food after a few hours, it's even better - definitely easy to recommend.

Tasted blind at Farr Vintners' horizontal, the 2006 Cantenac Brown offers a pleasant cranberry and raspberry coulis-scented bouquet with nicely integrated oak. The palate is medium-bodied with quite high acidity, fresh in the mouth, but rather steely and it seems to miss some depth on the otherwise elegant finish. The intentions are good here, but it does not quite pull it off. Tasted April 2016.