1996 Cantenac Brown

Dark lustrous crimson – looks particularly healthy. Fresh, reasonably mellow Cabernet aromas. Nicely melded integrated fruit. Good balance. This still packs quite a punch and still has both fruit and tannin. (JR)

I know AXA, the huge umbrella corporation that owns many Bordeaux chateaux, particularly Jean-Michel Cazes, has not been happy with my reviews of Cantenac-Brown, but I find the wine too tough-textured, tannic, and dry. Therefore, I am happy to say the 1996, while tannic, looks to be one of the better balanced efforts to emerge under the AXA administration. The color is a deep ruby/purple. The wine offers simple but pleasing aromas of black currants, licorice, and vanillin. In the mouth, it is medium to full-bodied, powerful, muscular, somewhat foursquare, but mouthfilling, rich, and with the potential to move up in score if more complexity develops. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2015.

Some good berry and tobacco character, but slightly lean in fruit concentration in the center-palate. Medium-bodied, with medium tannins and a short finish. Best after 1999. – James Suckling, Wine Spectator 1999