2005 Clos Fourtet

The 2005 Clos Fourtet was picked between September 26 and October 11 at 35 hl/ha. This has an outstanding bouquet with vivacious red fruit, brimming with crushed stone, a dash of tobacco and orange rind. Very cohesive and focused. There is a slight Rhône-like personality at almost two decades old. The palate is medium-bodied and very harmonious with white pepper-infused black fruit, hints of sage and a chalky finish. I am not quite as effusive as others, but this remains an excellent Clos Fourtet that should mature with grace. Tasted at the Clos Fourtet vertical in April 2023.

Concentrated and intense from the first moment, the aromatics spiral out of the glass with incense, sandalwood, camphor, fennel, anis, liqourice, smoked earth. The impact from the smoked oak is still pretty evident even now, a reflection of the winemaking style at the time, but this is stunning and filled with complex layers of raspberry puree, pomegrante, cocoa bean and espresso. Hard to resist. 100% new oak. Stephane Derenoncourt and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultants.

The 2005 Clos Fourtet is a dramatic, sweeping Saint-Émilion endowed with tremendous depth and unctuous intensity. Dark cherry, plum, cedar, tobacco and woodsmoke build as this rapturous, deeply textured wine shows off its allure. Silky, plush and wonderfully expressive, Clos Fourtet is fabulous in 2005. Bright saline notes, that are such a signature of Saint-Émilion's plateau, balance all of the natural richness of the year. Readers lucky enough to own it can look forward to another several decades of exceptional drinking. This is a superb effort from the Cuvelier family. (AG)