2005 Chambolle Musigny La Combe d'Orvaux

Relatively pale crimson. Very fresh, direct and positive with considerable charm already. Open, quite light and easy. Dances and sings but no great density. Dry finish, Quite delicate. This is a real palate sharpener. (JR)

Anne Gros’s generally light touch with extraction would seem to fit the nature of a thick-skinned vintage like 2005, and there is no question she has captured an element of delicacy in her 2005 Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau (from high above Clos Vougeot) that is rare for the vintage. Red cherry, rhubarb, cinnamon and lily-like florality in the nose lead to a polished, silky, bright, juicy, pure-fruited palate with persistent inner-mouth florality and hints of truffle. Meat and minerals enter on the long finish, which offers bloody, chalky and saline hints mingled with ripe but slightly tart red fruits. While this will have most appeal for tasters who like a little kick of acidity in their Pinot, the tannins are scarcely noticeable and the wine perfect for early drinking, indeed the most immediately charming wine in this year’s collection and my favorite Anne Gros Chambolle yet. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits ($42.00; 86). A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93.

Medium cherry-red color. Classic Chambolle aromas of raspberry, flowers and stone. Supple, juicy and fruit-driven, with noteworthy purity to the flavors of red fruits, flowers and spices. Good integrated acidity gives shape and verve to this enticing fruit bomb. Finishes with soft, fine tannins. Gros reports that she had a good healthy crop level here of about 43 hectoliters per hectare.