2005 Chambolle Musigny La Combe d'Orvaux

The 2005 Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveaux Vieilles Vignes – from 77-year-old vines high above the Clos Vougeot and virtually surrounded by Musigny (declassified in Perrot-Minot’s grandfather’s days) – had just been bottled (all 150 cases of it) the week before I tasted. If it was suffering from this, I can’t wait to taste it in stress-free condition! Blackberry, cassis, citrus zest, and sweet, musky, exotic, orchid-like floral aromas lead to a palate of utmost refinement of tannin, silky texture, bright primary fruit intensity, marrowy meatiness, subtly pungent spices, and inner-mouth florality. Deep, dark, clear black fruits and stony minerality mark the extraordinarily penetrating, gripping finish. If you disbelieve in the significance of location (a.k.a. terroir) just look this up on a vineyard map, taste it, and then try thinking of it as “premier” rather than “grand” cru. And if you think “bottling sickness” is inevitable, this wine will compel your agreement with Perrot-Minot that if performed by gravity, without filtration, and slowly enough, bottling need take away nothing. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400.

(these vines average about 70 years old) Bright ruby-red. Fascinating nose combines black fruits, peony and orange zest. Dense, thick and sweet but with perfect balancing acidity. There's something wild here. A Chambolle of outstanding intensity and length, finishing with thoroughly buffered tannins and terrific grip and sap. The mounting finishing flavors are all about pure fruit.