2005 Malartic Lagraviere

Deep garnet in colour, with opening aromatics of tobacco, coffee grounds, cocoa bean, damson and plum. With intensity and concentration, definitely feels that this has more years to go before reaching its peak. Supple silky texture, enjoyable, powerful. Harvest September 15 to October 12. Two years after the arrival of Jean-Jacques and Severine Bonnie to the family estate, purchased by the Bonnie family in 1997.

A modern, lush wine, the 2005 Malartic Lagraviere packs a serious punch. Inky red/purplish fruit, leather, smoke, tobacco and mocha all race out of the glass. This is an especially flamboyant style shaped by a good deal of new French oak, but the wood is now nicely balanced. I am pleasantly surprised to see how youthful the 2005 is. I would prefer to drink this succulent, racy Pessac-Léognan over the next decade or so.

The 2005 Malartic-Lagravière comprises a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. It has a rather sultry nose that seems sullen compared to more recent vintages like the 2010 or 2012, blackberry and briary, a touch of cedar, but just missing that necessary detail and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, a fine line of acidity, foursquare and conservative, possibly because it is missing that Petit Verdot that adds a floral note to subsequent vintages. Fine, but a little serious. Tasted at the vertical tasting at Malartic-Lagravière.